The Ancient Path: My Amarnath Yatra from Buddha Amarnath to the Holy Cave

The Amarnath Yatra, for many, begins in the bustling hubs of Jammu or Srinagar, or the traditional base camps of Baltal and Pahalgam. But for me, this year, my pilgrimage began much earlier, in a place steeped in ancient lore and profound spiritual significance: Loran, in the Poonch district of Jammu and Kashmir, home to the revered Buddha Amarnath Temple.

The True Beginning: Buddha Amarnath

It is here, amidst the serene beauty of Loran, that legend whispers of Lord Shiva beginning the sacred narration of the Amar Katha to Goddess Parvati—the very story that would grant her immortality. From this hallowed ground, they are said to have commenced their journey towards what is now the holy Amarnath Cave. Though the tale culminates with Shiva discovering Parvati asleep and a pair of pigeons having overheard the secret, he, in his boundless compassion, narrated the story again, in its entirety, to her. This profound sequence is why it is believed that the Amarnath Yatra truly begins at Buddha Amarnath, following the divine footsteps, and culminates at the Holy Cave.

The Neelmat Puran further enriches this site’s mystique, mentioning it as a place of meditation for Mahatma Pulsat, the grandfather of Ravana, with ancient sculptures attributed to Rishi Pulsat himself adorning the temple premises. This temple also holds a special grace for those unable to undertake the arduous journey to the main cave due to age or infirmity; a visit to Buddha Amarnath alone is considered a complete pilgrimage, highlighting its immense spiritual value and accessibility.

Last month, I was fortunate enough to complete my pilgrimage to Buddha Amarnath, feeling a deep connection to the ancient narrative. This month, I embarked on the next, culminating phase—the Amarnath Yatra itself, but with a twist.

The Mughal Road: Tracing Imperial Footsteps

Instead of the conventional route through Banihal and Ramban, I chose a path less travelled by modern pilgrims, yet rich with history: the magnificent Mughal Road. This was the exact route taken by the Mughal emperors during the scorching Indian summers, seeking the cool embrace of the Kashmir Valley. They relied on the wisdom of salt traders from Gujranwala (present-day Pakistan) who knew the ancient Srinagar salt trade route.

Along this historic road, the Mughals established ‘Sarais’—small forts with vast camping grounds, serving as halting places for their grand entourages. Glimpses of these historical remnants still stand: Nariya Sarai, Chingus Sarai, Adilabad Sarai, Sukh Sarai, and Thana Mandi Sarai, each whispering tales of a bygone era.

One such Sarai, Chingus, carries a particularly poignant and macabre story. It was here, on the way back from Kashmir in 1627, that Emperor Jehangir passed away. To prevent a premature war of succession and buy time for his favorite son, Shah Jahan, to consolidate power, Empress Nur Jahan orchestrated a daring plan. The Emperor’s mortal remains were opened, his intestines removed and buried within the fort of the Sarai. The body was then stuffed with herbs and bhusa, and placed upright on an elephant, to conceal his demise. In Persian, “intestines” are called ‘Chingus,’ thus giving the Sarai its unforgettable name—a chilling testament to history’s dramatic turns.

Pir Ki Gali: Where Saints and Mountains Meet

The Mughal Road then led me across the mighty Pir Panjal ranges, through the almost perennially snow-clad pass known as Pir Ki Gali. This pass is not just a geographical landmark but a spiritual one, named after two revered Sufi saints: Sheikh Ahmed Karim and Mir Sayed Ali Hamdani. Mir Sayed Ali Hamdani, in particular, holds a significant place, not just in Kashmir’s spiritual history but also internationally, featuring prominently on the 10 Somoni currency note of Tajikistan—a testament to his far-reaching influence.

Hathi Vanj: The Mountain of Elephants

Beyond Pir Ki Gali, the road wound alongside the infamous Hathi Vanj mountain. Its name, “Elephant’s Fall,” stems from a grim yet fascinating incident. A Mughal convoy commander, upon hearing an elephant slip and fall down the treacherous valley from this mountain, was so struck by its strength and the sheer drop that he ordered approximately a hundred elephants to be pushed from that very point, for him to hear the shriek of the elephants, forever etching their memory into the mountain’s name.

Shopian: The Apple Heart of Kashmir

After navigating this picturesque yet historically rich route through Pir Ki Gali, I descended into the beautiful apple town of Shopian. This vibrant town is a cornerstone of India’s fruit industry, its orchards yielding a bounty that graces tables across the nation. It was a refreshing stop, a transition from the rugged mountains to the verdant valley.

The Holy Cave: Culmination of a Sacred Journey

From Shopian, my journey continued to Srinagar. There, my friends had thoughtfully arranged transport to Baltal and further to the Domail base camp, the official starting point for the final leg of the Amarnath Yatra. The ascent to the Holy Cave was slow and steady, each step a meditation, each breath a prayer.

And then, I was there. The moment I reached the Holy Cave, a profound sense of peace enveloped me. It wasn’t just the physical destination; it was the culmination of a journey that had begun weeks earlier at Buddha Amarnath, tracing the ancient path of Shiva and Parvati, traversing historical routes, and witnessing the enduring kindness of humanity. The return journey, surprisingly, was devoid of any significant tiredness. It was as if the spiritual fulfillment had invigorated my very being.

This pilgrimage, undertaken in its ancient sequence, from Buddha Amarnath to the Holy Cave, was more than just a physical trek. It was a journey through history, legend, and personal revelation, deepening my connection to faith and the incredible tapestry of human compassion that binds us all.